How to Clean and Care for Sneakers: Leather, Suede, Knit and Midsoles

Updated October 2026 · Evergreen guide

Clean sneakers last longer, look better, and hold their resale value if you ever decide to sell. You don't need expensive kits. Most of the work is done with a soft brush, mild soap, water and patience. The key is to match the method to the material, because what works on leather can ruin suede.

The basic toolkit

• A soft-bristle brush (for uppers) and a medium brush (for midsoles and outsoles)
• Microfiber cloths
• Mild soap or a dedicated sneaker cleaner, mixed with lukewarm water
• A suede brush and suede eraser, if you own suede or nubuck
• Shoe trees or crumpled paper to hold the shape while drying

Always test any cleaner on a small, hidden spot first.

Step 1: Prep

1. Remove the laces and insoles if they come out.
2. Knock off loose dirt, then dry-brush the whole shoe to remove dust.
3. Put shoe trees or paper inside so the upper keeps its shape while you work.

Step 2: Clean by material

Smooth leather

Dip the soft brush in your soapy water, shake off the excess, and scrub in small circles. Wipe the suds away with a damp microfiber cloth. Leather tolerates a little more moisture than most materials, but avoid soaking it. Once dry, a leather conditioner can keep it from drying out and cracking.

Suede and nubuck

Suede and nubuck hate water. Start dry: use a suede brush to lift the nap (the fuzzy texture), and a suede eraser on scuffs and marks. For stubborn stains, use a cleaner made for suede, apply it sparingly, and brush the nap back up as it dries. Never put suede in the washing machine. If you're cleaning a pair like an Adidas Samba with a suede toe, treat each material separately.

Knit, mesh and canvas

Use a soft brush with a light, foamy solution and work gently. Knit uppers can fuzz or pill if you scrub too hard. Blot with a microfiber cloth rather than rubbing. Canvas is more forgiving and can take a bit more scrubbing.

Patent leather and synthetics

A damp cloth with a little mild soap is usually enough. Avoid harsh solvents, which can dull or damage the finish.

Step 3: Midsoles and outsoles

Midsoles collect the most visible dirt, and they're the most durable part of the shoe. Use the medium brush and your cleaning solution, and work into the textured areas. For foam midsoles like Boost, use a soft brush and gentle pressure so you don't damage the beads. A cleaning eraser sponge can remove scuffs from rubber and painted midsoles, but test it first because it's mildly abrasive and can remove paint.

Step 4: Laces and insoles

Laces can soak in warm, soapy water, then be rubbed together and rinsed. Insoles can be gently scrubbed with the same solution and left to air dry. A sprinkle of baking soda overnight helps with odor.

Step 5: Drying (where most damage happens)

• Air dry at room temperature with shoe trees or paper inside.
• Keep pairs out of direct sunlight, which can yellow soles and fade colors.
• Don't use a hair dryer, radiator or clothes dryer. Heat can warp shoes and weaken glue.

Should you machine-wash sneakers?

Many brands advise against it, and it voids some warranties. The tumbling, heat and soaking can loosen glue, deform the shape and damage materials, especially leather, suede and anything with foam or special finishes. If you choose to risk it with a canvas or simple knit pair, use cold water, a gentle cycle, and a mesh laundry bag, and always air dry afterward. Check the manufacturer's care guidance first.

Preventing damage

• Protective spray: A water and stain repellent made for the shoe's material adds a barrier, especially useful on suede and light colors. Reapply it periodically.
• Creases: Toe-box creasing is normal with wear. Shoe trees between wears help limit it.
• Rotation: Wearing the same pair every day gives it no time to dry out, which wears it faster. Rotating pairs helps them last.
• Quick wipe-downs: Wiping fresh dirt off after wearing is much easier than removing set-in stains later.

Yellowing soles

Icy and clear soles naturally yellow over time through oxidation, sped up by UV light and heat. Storing pairs out of the sun slows it down. Products that claim to reverse yellowing exist, but results vary and some methods can damage soles, so research carefully and test on an old pair first.

Storing sneakers

• Store pairs in a cool, dry, dark place with stable temperature.
• Use shoe trees or paper to hold their shape.
• Clear drop-front boxes protect against dust while letting you see your collection. Original boxes are worth keeping if you might resell.
• Silica gel packets help in humid climates.
• Avoid sealing shoes airtight in plastic for long periods, which can trap moisture.

Care for resale

If you plan to sell a pair later, keep the original box, extra laces, and any tags. Clean the shoes before taking photos, and be honest about wear. Our guide to how sneaker resale platforms work explains how condition affects where and how you can sell.

A few minutes of care after wearing, a proper deep clean when needed, and smart storage are enough to keep most pairs looking good for years.